When you turn the key and absolutely nothing happens - no crank, no click, no dashboard lights flickering - the issue is a complete lack of power somewhere in the starting circuit. Usually it's a totally dead battery, but it can also be a security system lockout, a bad ignition switch, or a blown fuse. Walk through the steps below in order and you'll find it fast.
A completely dead car is usually fixable without a tow if you can identify the cause. Start with the battery (most common), then check security system, ignition switch, and fuses. If the dashboard has no lights at all when you turn the key to ON, focus on the battery and battery cables first.
If you have NO dashboard lights, no clicks, nothing - the battery is probably completely flat. Could be from leaving lights or a door open, an old battery that finally died, or a parasitic drain. Try a jump start first.
View Full Diagnosis - P0562 →Many cars from 2000+ have an anti-theft chip in the key. If the system doesn't recognize the key (dead key fob battery, faulty receiver), it disables the starter. Look for a flashing security light on the dash. Often fixed by waiting 10 minutes with key in ON position.
View Full Diagnosis - P0606 →The electrical part of the ignition switch (separate from the lock cylinder you put the key in) can fail and not send power to the starter. Common on certain GM and Ford models. Replacement is $80-250.
View Full Diagnosis - Ignition Diagnosis →A cable that has worked itself loose - or a corroded connection at the battery, starter, or ground - cuts off all power. Wiggle each cable; if any move freely, that's the problem. Tighten with a wrench (negative first when removing, positive first when reattaching).
View Full Diagnosis - Cable Diagnosis →A blown main fusible link or a bad starter relay cuts power to the starting circuit completely. Check your fuse box (usually under hood and inside the car) for any obviously blown fuses, and try swapping the starter relay with an identical relay from another circuit.
View Full Diagnosis - P0615 →Describe your symptom (or paste your code) and our AI gives you the exact most-likely fix, parts list, and cost - in under 30 seconds. $5.99. One report, no subscription.
Get My Repair Report →Walk-through diagnosis. No mechanic needed for the easy fixes.
If your scan tool is showing one of these codes alongside this symptom, that's your starting point. Click any code for the full diagnosis, common causes, and repair costs.
It means the starter motor is getting no power at all. The most common causes are a completely dead battery, loose or corroded battery cables, a security system lockout (anti-theft), a failed ignition switch, or a blown main fuse. Start with the battery - it's the most common cause.
Turn the key to ON (don't try to start). If dashboard lights don't come on at all, the battery is dead or disconnected. If dashboard lights come on bright but the engine won't crank, the battery is probably okay - the issue is in the starter circuit (starter, solenoid, ignition switch, or security system).
Yes - very commonly on cars made after 2000. The chip in your key talks to a receiver around the ignition. If the receiver doesn't recognize the key (dead key fob battery, programming issue, faulty receiver), it disables the starter as an anti-theft measure. Look for a flashing security light on the dashboard.
Free if it's a loose cable or security lockout. New battery: $100-250. New ignition switch: $80-250 with labor. New starter: $200-500. Walk through the diagnosis carefully - you don't want to pay for a starter when the real issue was a $5 corroded cable.