A no-start is one of three things: no spark, no fuel, or no crank. The sound your car makes (or doesn't) when you turn the key narrows it down in seconds. Here's how to tell which one you have.
Most common cause by far. Headlights dim, dashboard flickers, single click or rapid clicking on key turn. Often just the terminals are corroded.
Battery is good (lights normal) but you hear a single click or nothing on key turn. Tap the starter with a hammer - if it cranks once, the starter is dying.
Cranks fine but won't catch. Listen for the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to "on" - 2 seconds of buzzing from the rear of the car.
Lights work, no crank, security light flashing, key won't turn or no power on accessory. Anti-theft has locked the engine out.
Battery keeps going dead despite jump-starts. Alternator is not charging. Test voltage at the battery with engine running - should be 13.8-14.6V.
If your fuel pump is failing intermittently, you can be stranded anywhere. If your starter only works after multiple tries, it can leave you stuck the next time. Solve no-starts in your driveway, not in a parking lot at night.
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If headlights are bright but the engine won't crank, suspect the starter. If headlights dim or flicker when you turn the key, the battery is too weak.
Intermittent no-starts are usually weak battery, dirty terminals, failing starter, or a marginal fuel pump. Get tested before it fails completely.
No - alternators do not draw current when off. A parasitic drain (interior light, glovebox light, aftermarket accessory) drains overnight. A weak alternator drains the battery while you drive.
Cold drops battery cranking amps by 30-50% and thickens engine oil, so a marginal battery fails first on cold mornings. Replace the battery if it is over 4 years old.
You have crank but no combustion - either no fuel, no spark, or no compression. Check for fuel pump prime, pull codes for crank/cam sensor codes, and try starting fluid as a test.