Clicking can mean a $5 battery cable or a $400 CV axle. The fix depends entirely on when you hear it. Match your situation to the right cause and you'll know whether to drive to the shop or wait for a tow.
Rhythmic clicking when turning, especially under acceleration and tight turns, is the textbook outer CV joint failure.
Single click or rapid clicking when you turn the key but engine does not crank. Usually the battery or its connections.
Tapping or ticking from the top of the engine that fades after warm-up is hydraulic lifter chatter. Often improves after an oil change with proper viscosity.
A soft, regular clicking heard with the hood open at idle is normal injector operation. Loud uneven ticking can be a stuck injector.
Sharp tick-tick that goes faster with engine speed, loudest at cold start, and quiets as the engine warms - cracked manifold or broken stud.
A CV joint clicks louder than a normal "tick-tick" - it can shear under acceleration and leave you stranded. A starter that just clicks may also indicate a parasitic drain that will leave you stuck again tomorrow.
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Almost always battery or starter. A single solid click usually means dead battery or seized starter. Rapid clicking means battery is too weak to engage the solenoid. Clean terminals first - corrosion is free to fix.
A failing CV joint that clicks during turns can eventually break free under load, leaving you with no drive to that wheel. Repair within a few hundred miles of first noise.
Cold oil drains out of lifter bores overnight. They take a few seconds to refill on startup. If it fades within 30-60 seconds, it is normal. If it stays, suspect worn lifters or oil pressure issues.
Spark plugs themselves don't click, but a misfire causes uneven engine motion. The "click" is usually engine surge or knock, not a true tick.
HVAC blend door actuators have small motors that click when stuck. Common on GM, Ford, Honda. Replacement is $200-$500 typically because the dash often comes apart.