Wipers that will not move are usually a blown fuse, a failed wiper motor, or a broken linkage that connects the motor to the wiper arms. Speed-specific failures (no low, only high) point to the wiper switch or resistor. Here is the ranked list.
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Wipers stall against a heavy load (snow, ice, leaves) and draw extra current, blowing the fuse. Free to test, $5 to fix. Check this before assuming the worst. Cost: $2 - $10. DIY: Easy. Severity: High.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →After years of use the brushes inside the motor wear out. You hear nothing or a faint hum when you switch wipers on. Motor is usually bolted under the hood at the base of the windshield. Cost: $200 - $400. DIY: Medium. Severity: High.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →The metal arms that translate motor rotation into wiper sweep crack or pop off their ball joints. Motor runs but wipers do not move, or one moves and one does not. Cost: $100 - $300. DIY: Medium. Severity: High.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →The wiper stalk on the column wears out. Speeds work intermittently or only certain positions work. Swap-test by activating the same speed multiple times - if it fails inconsistently, the switch is suspect. Cost: $80 - $300. DIY: Hard. Severity: High.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →A small relay in the under-hood or under-dash fuse panel controls the wiper motor. The relay fails and wipers do nothing. Swap with an identical relay (often the horn) to test. Cost: $10 - $200. DIY: Easy. Severity: High.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →Work through these in order. Stop as soon as you find the cause - you usually do not need all four.
Find the "WIPER" or "WPR" fuse in the under-dash or under-hood panel (usually 20-30A). Pull and inspect - if the metal strip across the top is broken, it is blown. Replace with the same amperage.
In the same panel, find the wiper relay - usually a small cube near the fuse. Swap it with a known-good identical relay (the horn relay is usually the same part). Try wipers. If they now work, replace the relay ($10).
With the hood open and someone switching wipers on, listen at the base of the windshield where the motor lives. A whir with no wiper movement = broken linkage. Silence = motor is dead or no power.
Unbolt the wiper motor (3 bolts on most cars). Disconnect the harness. Apply 12V to the motor leads. If it spins strongly, the wiring or switch is the problem. If weak or silent, the motor is dead.
If your scanner shows one of these B-codes (body) along with the symptom, run a free AI diagnosis to confirm.
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In order of likelihood: blown wiper fuse (free fix), failed wiper motor ($200-$400), or bad wiper switch on the column. Check the fuse first - takes 30 seconds.
The "park" switch inside the wiper motor is bad. The motor stops when power is cut instead of returning to the rest position. Replace the motor.
$200 - $400 installed at a shop. DIY parts $80 - $200; replacement is 3-4 bolts and a wiring connector.
A small resistor in the wiper switch or BCM controls speed. Low and intermittent speeds run through the resistor; high bypasses it. Resistor or switch is bad.
Legally and safely no - visibility is required. If a fuse is blown, replacing it is a 30-second roadside fix. Otherwise pull over and call for help.
Heavy snow or ice load on the wipers - the motor stalls and the fuse protects the wiring. Lift the wipers off the glass before snow falls and clear the windshield before turning them on.