Replacing a tail pipe at a shop typically runs $80 to $300. The pipe itself is cheap; labor is mostly cutting off the old one and clamping or welding in the new one. Stainless steel options last decades.
Most drivers pay $120 to $200 at an independent shop. A stainless universal tail pipe with clamps is often a $100 fix.
Aluminized rusts in 5-8 years. Stainless is double the cost and lasts the life of the car.
Chrome polished tips, dual-outlet, and angled tips add $30-$150.
Welded is cleaner. Clamps can loosen over time.
Custom-bent pipe is pricier than straight stock pipe.
Rotted hangers near the tail pipe often replaced together.
Muffler shops do tail pipes for a fraction of dealer cost.
| Vehicle | Typical Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2010 Honda Civic | $80 - $180 | simple single outlet |
| 2012 Ford F-150 | $120 - $250 | larger pipe diameter |
| 2014 Toyota Camry | $100 - $200 | OEM tail pipe |
| 2008 Chevy Silverado | $150 - $280 | dual exhaust option |
| 2015 Subaru Forester | $100 - $220 | tight access |
| 2016 Dodge Charger | $150 - $300 | dual outlet performance |
Plug in a scanner, enter the code, and get the most likely cause in seconds.
Get Free Diagnosis100% free first answer · No signup required
Visible rust holes, loud blowing sound from under the rear, dragging from a broken hanger, or soot stains around the pipe.
Yes, until it has actual holes or falls off. A dragging pipe is a road hazard and a noise ticket waiting to happen.
Yes - it costs $30-$60 more and lasts 3-5x longer. In Rust Belt states it pays for itself easily.
Cheap chrome tips will pit and rust in 1-3 years. Stainless polished tips last the life of the car.
Almost none. Tail pipe is downstream of everything that matters. Diameter or length changes have minimal effect.
For pinholes, yes - exhaust putty or wrap lasts 6-12 months and costs $10-$20. Larger holes need pipe replacement.