Replacing an exhaust manifold at a shop typically runs $400 to $1,500. Cracked cast-iron manifolds and burnt gaskets are the most common reasons. V-engines often double the cost since both sides may need work.
Most drivers pay $600 to $1,000 at an independent shop. Snapped manifold bolts are extremely common - extraction can add $200-$600 in labor.
Stock cast-iron is cheaper. Aftermarket stainless headers run $300-$900.
V6 and V8 have two manifolds - cost may double if both fail.
Heat-cycled bolts almost always snap. Extraction or head removal adds significant labor.
Always replaced - $30-$100.
Often damaged or rattling - replace at same time.
New sensors and bungs often needed.
| Vehicle | Typical Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2010 Ford F-150 5.4L | $700 - $1,300 | known cracked manifolds, broken bolts |
| 2012 Chevy Silverado 5.3L | $600 - $1,100 | common AFM-engine issue |
| 2008 Jeep Wrangler 3.8L | $500 - $900 | single manifold |
| 2014 Toyota Tundra 5.7L | $800 - $1,500 | dual manifold, tight access |
| 2015 Honda Civic 1.8L | $400 - $700 | simple inline 4 |
| 2013 BMW 335i N55 | $900 - $1,800 | complex, OEM only |
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Loud ticking on cold start that fades as the engine warms, exhaust smell in the cabin, P0420 code, or visible black soot around the manifold.
Short term yes, but exhaust gases can enter the cabin (CO risk), oxygen sensors will read incorrectly, and the cat will be damaged from incorrect fuel trims.
No - the gasket sits between the manifold and the cylinder head. A leaking gasket is much cheaper to fix than a cracked manifold.
Decades of heat-cycling combined with iron-to-steel galvanic corrosion. It is so common that pros budget extraction time on every job.
For pure stock use, OEM cast iron is fine. For performance or to avoid known weak manifolds (F-150 5.4L), stainless headers are an upgrade.
Often the life of the vehicle, but some engines (Ford 5.4L, Subaru EJ25) are known for cracking around 100,000 miles.