📈 Average 2026 US Cost
$180 - $600
Most owners pay $200-$400 for parts and labor.
📈 What Affects The Price
- Sensor location: Some are bolted right on the engine block (easy). Others are behind the starter or near the flywheel (hard).
- OEM vs aftermarket: Quality matters - aftermarkets often re-trigger codes within months.
- Heat-related failure: Many fail only when hot. A test drive while warm may be needed to confirm.
- Crank relearn procedure: Some cars need a scan-tool crank position relearn after install.
- Wiring harness condition: Older wiring near the sensor can be brittle - replace if damaged.
- O-ring or gasket required: A torn o-ring causes oil leaks - replace with the sensor.
💵 Cost Breakdown: Parts vs Labor
🛠️ Parts
$80 - $300
Aftermarket: $25-$60. OEM Bosch, Denso, NTK: $80-$300. Always replace with quality.
👨🔧 Labor
$100 - $300
Easy locations: 30 minutes. Buried sensors near the bellhousing or behind the starter: 1-2 hours.
🚗 Cost By Vehicle Class
| Vehicle Class | Typical Range | Notes |
|---|
| Compact / sedan | $180 - $350 | Often easy access |
| V6 / V8 with buried sensor | $250 - $500 | Behind starter common |
| Truck V8 | $200 - $450 | Most are accessible |
| Diesel pickup | $300 - $700 | Larger, more expensive sensors |
| Luxury / European | $300 - $700 | OEM Bosch only |
⚖️ DIY vs Shop
🔧 DIY
- +Saves $100-$300 in labor
- +Sensor itself is cheap
- +Easy 30-60 minute job in most locations
- -Buried sensors require removing other components
- -Wrong sensor = no fix
🏭 Shop
- +Verifies failure with scan tool
- +Performs crank relearn
- +Warranty
- -Easy upsell - some shops swap without confirming the cause
🔒 How To Avoid Overpaying
- Confirm failure - many P0335 codes are wiring or connector issues, not the sensor.
- Test the sensor with a multimeter. Most produce an AC signal during cranking.
- OEM Bosch, Denso, NTK - cheap sensors fail within months.
- Replace the o-ring - reusing can cause oil leaks.
- After install, some cars need a scan-tool crank relearn. Most relearn during normal driving.
- A no-start that comes back when the engine cools down is the classic crank sensor symptom.
- Check the wiring before condemning - rodents love these wires.
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💬 Frequently Asked Questions
What are the symptoms of a bad crankshaft position sensor?
Intermittent no-start, stalling at idle, misfires, surging, and rough running - especially when the engine is hot.
Can a car run without a crankshaft position sensor?
No - modern fuel-injected cars need crank signal to fire the injectors and spark plugs. A failed sensor means no-start.
How do I test a crank sensor?
A scan tool reading RPM during cranking is the quickest test. A multimeter on AC voltage during cranking should show a fluctuating signal.
Why does my no-start come and go?
Heat-related sensor failure is the classic symptom. The sensor works cold, fails when hot, then works again after cooling. Replace it - it will only get worse.
Should I replace just the sensor or the whole harness?
Just the sensor unless the harness has visible damage or corrosion. Most failures are the sensor itself.