When a power window drops fine but will not raise, the diagnosis is usually simple: worn motor brushes. Up takes more current than down (it is fighting gravity), and a tired motor loses the up direction first. Here is the ranked list.
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The motor needs more current to lift glass than to drop it. Brushes wear down and stop delivering enough torque for the up direction. Almost always a complete motor or motor-regulator assembly replacement. Cost: $200 - $450. DIY: Medium. Severity: Low.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →The "up" contact inside the switch is burned or corroded but "down" still works. Swap with another door switch to confirm. Inexpensive fix if you catch it before the motor goes too. Cost: $30 - $200. DIY: Easy. Severity: Low.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →The cable or scissor has stretched. The motor can wind it down with gravity but cannot wind it up under load. Window drops fast or sits crooked. Cost: $250 - $500. DIY: Medium. Severity: Low.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →Ice, dirt, or a swollen felt is binding the glass. The motor can pull down with gravity's help but cannot push up. Lubricate the track with silicone spray. Cost: $5 - $20. DIY: Easy. Severity: Low.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →Anti-pinch sensors think something is in the way. Some cars latch out the up direction until reset. Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or follow the auto up/down reset procedure. Cost: $0. DIY: Easy. Severity: Low.
Get a Free AI Diagnosis →Work through these in order. Stop as soon as you find the cause - you usually do not need all four.
Try the master switch on the driver door (if you are at a passenger door). If up works from the master but not from the door switch, the door switch is bad. If neither works, the motor or wiring is the issue.
Press the switch UP while a helper firmly slaps the door panel near the motor. If the window moves a little each time you slap, the brushes are worn - a tap nudges them into contact briefly.
Find the "PWR WINDOW" fuse (25-30A) in the fuse panel. A blown fuse usually kills both directions, but inspect anyway. Replace with same amperage.
Spray silicone lubricant (NOT WD-40) on the rubber felt that lines the window opening. Cycle the window up and down a few times. Sticky tracks load the motor and accelerate brush wear.
If your scanner shows one of these B-codes (body) along with the symptom, run a free AI diagnosis to confirm.
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Up requires more current than down because the motor is fighting gravity. Worn motor brushes can deliver enough current for the easy direction but not the hard one. Replace the motor.
Once one direction is intermittent, the other usually follows within a few months. Plan to replace the motor before it strands you with the window down in a thunderstorm.
$200 - $450 installed at a shop. DIY parts $80 - $200; takes 60-90 minutes including pulling the door panel.
Sometimes. With the door panel off, firmly tap the motor housing with a screwdriver handle while pressing the switch up. It can knock the brushes back into contact for a few more uses.
On most modern cars, yes - it is a single assembly. Standalone motors exist for older vehicles. Always check before ordering.
A dying motor can draw extra current and blow the fuse, especially if you keep holding the switch up. If the fuse keeps blowing, the motor is the cause.