📋 Quick Facts
Time
1-2 hours per side
Difficulty
Medium
Tools
9 needed
Cost to DIY
$80-280
Modern vehicles use bolt-on hub bearing assemblies that include the bearing, hub flange, and ABS sensor in one unit. Replacement is 1-2 hours per side - much easier than the old press-in tapered bearing design.
🛠 What You'll Need
- New wheel hub bearing assembly (matched to vehicle and side) (wheel hub bearing on Amazon)
- Socket set with deep sockets (typically 13-22mm) (socket set on Amazon)
- Breaker bar (breaker bar on Amazon)
- Torque wrench (capable of 200+ ft-lb for axle nut) (torque wrench on Amazon)
- Axle nut socket (typically 30-36mm) (axle nut socket on Amazon)
- Slide hammer or hub puller (if the hub is rust-welded) (hub puller on Amazon)
- Penetrating oil (penetrating oil on Amazon)
- Floor jack and jack stands (jack stand set on Amazon)
- Mechanic gloves and eye protection (mechanic gloves on Amazon)
⚠ When NOT to DIY thisOn FWD vehicles the axle nut is torqued to 180-280 ft-lb. Removing it requires the wheel on the ground or a helper holding the brakes. Never spin the bearing dry - the new bearing can be damaged if you torque the axle nut with the assembly off the vehicle. Some hubs are rust-welded to the knuckle and require a slide hammer or significant force to free - heat and a hammer can crack the cast knuckle.
✅ Before You Start - Checklist
- Park on level, solid ground (no slopes, no soft dirt)
- Engine is at the correct temperature (cold or warm as specified)
- All tools and parts on hand BEFORE you begin
- Owner's manual nearby for torque specs and locations
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, hood propped open
📝 Step-by-Step Instructions
- Loosen the axle hub nut before lifting (FWD only)With the wheel on the ground, use a breaker bar with the proper socket. Crack the nut a half-turn.
- Loosen the lug nuts a half-turnOn the ground, crack the lug nuts loose.
- Lift the vehicle and set jack standsStands under the chassis. Remove the wheel.
- Spray penetrating oil on the hub-to-knuckle boltsThere are typically 3 or 4 bolts on the back of the hub flange. Wait 10 minutes.
- Remove the brake caliper and bracketUnbolt the caliper from its bracket, hang it on a wire (do not let it dangle on the brake hose), then unbolt the caliper bracket from the knuckle.
- Remove the brake rotorSlides off the hub studs. May need a few hammer taps if rusted. Tap on the rotor face, not the hub.
- Unplug the ABS wheel speed sensorThere is a connector on the back of the hub or on the chassis. Squeeze the tab and pull straight.
- Remove the axle hub nut (FWD)It should come off easily after being cracked loose. Pull the axle slightly out of the hub.
- Remove the hub-to-knuckle boltsThese are accessed from the back of the knuckle and can be tight. Typically 13-17mm and may be torque-to-yield (replace with new).
- Pull the hub assembly off the knuckleIt may come off by hand. If rust-welded, use a slide hammer threaded onto the hub flange or a 3-jaw puller. Do NOT pound on the hub flange directly.
- Clean the knuckle boreWire-brush the bore where the hub sits. Rust here causes the new hub to bind or sit unevenly.
- Compare old vs new hub assemblyBolt pattern, axle splines, ABS sensor location, stud count and length.
- Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the knuckle boreJust enough to prevent future rust-welding. Do NOT get any on the bearing or bolts.
- Position the new hub on the knuckleSlide the axle through the hub splines first if FWD.
- Hand-thread NEW hub boltsMost hub bolts are torque-to-yield single-use.
- Torque the hub bolts to specTypical spec: 70-100 ft-lb plus an angle turn. Verify with service info.
- Plug the ABS connector back inListen for the click. Tuck the wire in the original routing clips.
- Reinstall the brake rotor, caliper bracket, and caliperBracket bolts: typically 80-110 ft-lb. Caliper slide pins: 25-35 ft-lb.
- Hand-thread the new axle hub nut (FWD)Mount the wheel, lower to the ground.
- Torque the axle hub nut to specTypical spec: 180-220 ft-lb. Set the cotter pin or stake the nut as required.
- Torque lug nuts to spec80-100 ft-lb passenger, 130-150 ft-lb truck.
- Test driveNo grinding or droning. ABS light should clear after a short drive.
✅ After You Finish - Verify Checklist
- No tools left in the engine bay or under the car
- Test the system you worked on (start, drive, check, etc.)
- Look for leaks or drips after 5 minutes of running
- Record the date and mileage in your service log
- Recycle or properly dispose of any old parts/fluids
🔗 Related Guides
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know a wheel bearing is bad?
Humming or droning that changes with speed and load. The noise often changes when you sway the vehicle from side to side. ABS warning light may come on if the integrated speed sensor fails.
Do I need an alignment after replacing a wheel hub?
No. The hub does not change suspension geometry.
Should I replace both sides at once?
Not required. Replace only the failed side unless the other is also noisy.
Why is my ABS light still on after replacement?
Wire not fully clicked into the connector, broken sensor on the new hub (rare but happens), or the codes need to be cleared with a scan tool.
How long do wheel bearings last?
85,000 to 150,000 miles. Curb hits, deep potholes, and water intrusion shorten life.
Can I reuse the hub bolts?
Most hub bolts are torque-to-yield and should be replaced. New bolts often come with the new hub. Verify in service info.