How to Replace an Engine Mount

📋 Quick Facts

Engine mounts isolate the powertrain from the chassis. When they fail (cracked rubber, leaking hydraulic fluid), you feel thumps on shifting and vibration at idle. DIY replacement is 1-3 hours depending on which mount and how the engine has to be supported.

🛠 What You'll Need

• New engine mount (vehicle-specific OEM or premium aftermarket) (engine mount on Amazon)
• Floor jack with a wood block to support the engine (floor jack on Amazon)
• Jack stands (rated for the vehicle weight) (jack stand set on Amazon)
• Socket set with extensions (typically 13, 15, 17, 18mm) (socket set on Amazon)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb range) (torque wrench on Amazon)
• Breaker bar (breaker bar on Amazon)
• Penetrating oil (penetrating oil on Amazon)
• Mechanic gloves and eye protection (mechanic gloves on Amazon)

✅ Before You Start - Checklist

• Park on level, solid ground (no slopes, no soft dirt)
• Engine is at the correct temperature (cold or warm as specified)
• All tools and parts on hand BEFORE you begin
• Owner's manual nearby for torque specs and locations
• Safety: gloves, eye protection, hood propped open

📝 Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Confirm which mount is badOpen the hood with the engine warm and idling. Have a helper shift between Drive and Reverse with the brake firmly held. The mount that lets the engine rock excessively is the failed one. Look for cracked rubber, separated metal, or hydraulic fluid weeping (red or amber).
2. Park on level ground and chock the wheelsEngine off, parking brake set. Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
3. Lift the vehicle and set jack standsLift the front (or side) needed to access the mount. Place jack stands under a rated chassis pinch weld or frame point.
4. Support the engine from underneathPlace a second floor jack with a flat wood block (2x4 or 4x4) under the engine oil pan or transmission case. Raise just enough to take weight off the mount. Do not lift the engine yet.
5. Spray penetrating oil on all mount fastenersMount bolts often seize. Let it soak for 10 minutes before applying torque.
6. Remove anything blocking accessOn some vehicles you must move the coolant reservoir, washer bottle, intake duct, or wiring harness brackets to reach the mount.
7. Loosen the mount-to-frame bolts firstThese are typically 14-17mm. Crack them loose with a breaker bar before fully unthreading.
8. Loosen the mount-to-engine boltsThese connect the mount to a bracket on the engine block or transmission. Often longer and tighter.
9. Carefully raise the engine just enoughLift the engine support jack 1/2 to 1 inch. Watch the radiator hoses, throttle cable, and wiring harnesses. Stop the moment the mount is unloaded.
10. Remove all mount bolts and slide the old mount outIt may need a wiggle. If the through-bolt is rusted, tap it out with a punch.
11. Compare old vs new mountBolt holes, height, stud orientation, and any fluid-filled vs solid construction. Many mounts are sided.
12. Install the new mountSlide it into position. Hand-thread all bolts before tightening any. This prevents cross-threading.
13. Torque the mount-to-engine bolts to specTypical spec: 35-55 ft-lb. Verify in service info for your year/make/model.
14. Torque the mount-to-frame bolts to specTypical spec: 50-65 ft-lb for the larger through-bolt. Some vehicles use torque-to-yield bolts that should be replaced.
15. Lower the engine jack and remove itThe engine should sit normally on the new mount. Recheck all hoses and harnesses for stretch or rub.
16. Lower the vehicle and testStart the engine, shift through gears with the brake held, listen for thumps. None means success.

✅ After You Finish - Verify Checklist

• No tools left in the engine bay or under the car
• Test the system you worked on (start, drive, check, etc.)
• Look for leaks or drips after 5 minutes of running
• Record the date and mileage in your service log
• Recycle or properly dispose of any old parts/fluids

🔗 Related Guides

❓ Frequently Asked Questions