Replacing a catalytic converter typically costs $900 to $2,500, and can top $3,000 on vehicles with multiple converters or expensive OEM units. The precious metals inside make the part costly: $150 to $800 aftermarket, or $500 to $2,000-plus for OEM. Labor is usually modest at $100 to $300.
| Vehicle type | Parts | Labor | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Economy sedan (aftermarket) | $300 | $150 | $450 |
| Midsize/SUV (OEM) | $900 | $250 | $1,150 |
| Full-size truck (dual) | $1,400 | $300 | $1,700 |
| European/luxury (OEM) | $1,800 | $400 | $2,200 |
The wide range comes down to the converter itself. Aftermarket direct-fit converters run $150 to $800, while OEM units for many late-model cars cost $500 to $2,000 or more. Cars with two or four converters multiply that cost.
In states with strict emissions laws like California, you may be required to use a CARB-compliant converter, which costs more but is legal and warrantied.
Labor is usually the small part unless the converter is rusted to the exhaust or integrated into the manifold. Bolt-on converters take an hour or two; welded or manifold-integrated units take longer.
A P0420 or P0430 check-engine code, failed emissions test, sluggish acceleration, a rotten-egg smell, or a rattle from inside the converter all point to failure. Theft is also common, and a stolen converter leaves a very loud exhaust.
Bolt-in converters are DIY-friendly if you can safely lift the car and the hardware is not rusted solid. Welded units need an exhaust shop. Always confirm the converter is actually bad and not just reading a code from an upstream oxygen sensor or exhaust leak.
Fix the root cause first, since a rich fuel mixture or bad oxygen sensor can kill a new converter. Where legal, a quality aftermarket direct-fit unit costs far less than OEM. If theft is a risk, add a shield or etch the unit.
The 50 most common check engine codes with likely cause and DIY fix cost. Sent once.