Best Years Ford Explorer to Buy (and Which to Skip)

🏆 The short answer

The Ford Explorer is one of the best-selling SUVs in America, which means there are millions on the used market and prices vary wildly by year. The difference between a good year and a bad one is not small. Picking the right model year can be the difference between 200,000 trouble-free miles and a $2,000 repair bill in your first year of ownership. Below we break down every generation, the specific years that earn a buy or a skip, and what the common failures actually cost.

📊 Best and worst Explorer years at a glance

Here is the quick scorecard. Use it to filter listings before you ever schedule a test drive.

✅ Why 2017-2019 is the best buy

By 2017, Ford had spent six years refining the fifth-generation Explorer. The 3.5L and 2.3L EcoBoost engines were mature, the six-speed automatic was dependable, and most of the early-generation gremlins had been patched out through running production changes. These years also got an updated front fascia and improved infotainment.

From a value standpoint, a 2017-2019 Explorer sits in the sweet spot of the depreciation curve. The steepest drop has already happened, so you get a modern three-row SUV with adaptive cruise availability, blind-spot monitoring, and a tow rating up to 5,000 lbs for a fraction of new-car money. If you see a check engine light during a test drive, our guide on a check engine light that is on walks through what to inspect before you walk away.

What to verify on a 2017-2019

• Service records showing coolant flushes and timely oil changes
• No coolant smell or low coolant level (internal water pump risk on the V6)
• Smooth, prompt shifts with no flare between gears
• All recalls completed (check the VIN on the NHTSA site)

💎 The 2011 value play and the 2021+ premium pick

If your budget is tight, the 2011 Explorer is the smartest dollar in the lineup. It launched the fifth generation with a fundamentally sound 3.5L V6 and unibody design, and a decade of price erosion means clean examples are some of the cheapest three-row SUVs you can buy. The one caveat is the internal water pump, covered below.

On the other end, the 2021 and newer sixth-generation Explorer is the best one to drive. Ford moved it to a rear-wheel-drive-based CD6 platform, which improved towing, ride, and handling. Critically, 2021+ models had a full year or more to shake out the launch-year problems that plagued 2020. If you can stretch the budget, a 2022 or 2023 is the strongest combination of refinement and remaining reliability.

⛔ Which Ford Explorer years to avoid

Some years carry enough documented trouble that they are not worth the discount. Here is where to be careful when shopping the best years Ford Explorer list against the weakest ones.

2020 (sixth-gen launch)

The 2020 Explorer was an all-new vehicle built on a compressed timeline, and it showed. It drew an unusually high number of recalls and owner complaints covering transmission shift quality, rattles, seat and trim defects, and software glitches. Later sixth-gen years fixed most of this, so there is little reason to take the launch-year risk. If a 2020 you are looking at throws a P0700 transmission control fault, treat it as a serious negotiation or walk-away point.

2013-2014

These mid-cycle years generated complaints about power steering assist loss and the same internal water-pump weakness. They are buyable with strong records, but a 2017-2019 is the safer money.

2002-2005 (third gen)

This era is best known for transmission failures and is now old enough that nearly every example is high-mileage. Unless it is a cheap project or a known one-owner car, skip it.

🔧 The one problem that defines Explorer years: the water pump

The single most important thing to understand about 2011-2017 V6 Explorers is the internally mounted water pump. On the 3.5L Cyclone V6, the water pump sits inside the engine, driven by the timing chain. When it fails, coolant can leak directly into the crankcase and mix with the oil, which can destroy the engine if it is not caught quickly.

Replacement is labor-intensive because the timing cover has to come off, so the job typically runs $1,000 to $2,000 at a shop. This is exactly the kind of repair where you should never accept the first number you are given. Our repair quote checker tells you whether a quoted price is fair for your area. Watch for coolant loss with no visible external leak, a sweet smell, or milky oil. If you see any of those, get our take on how to check for a coolant leak before committing.

🧭 How to pick the right Explorer for you

1. Set your budget. Under $15k points you toward a 2011-2016. Mid-range lands on a 2017-2019. Above that, target a 2021+.
2. Filter out the avoid years. Skip 2020 and 2002-2005 unless the deal and records are exceptional.
3. Check the VIN history. Confirm all recalls were completed and look for accident or flood titles.
4. Prioritize cooling-system records. A documented water-pump replacement on a V6 is a green flag, not a red one.
5. Get a pre-purchase inspection. Have a mechanic confirm clean oil, smooth shifts, and no coolant cross-contamination.

A well-maintained Explorer can comfortably reach 150,000 to 200,000 miles. The single biggest factor in getting there is staying ahead of the cooling system and transmission fluid, regardless of which year you buy.

❓ Frequently asked questions

📝 TL;DR

• Buy: 2017-2019 (best value), 2021+ (best to drive), 2011 (cheapest proven pick).
• Avoid: 2020 launch year, 2002-2005 transmissions, and be cautious with 2013-2014.
• The key inspection: internal water pump on 2011-2017 V6 models, a $1,000-$2,000 risk.
• Bottom line: the right year and clean cooling-system records matter far more than mileage.